Method for preparing pressed powder makeup sticks and product produced

ABSTRACT

A cosmetic makeup composition in the form of a dry pressed powder stick. The dry composition is composed of finely divided, generally inert materials, including 40 percent to 90 percent by weight of chalk, colorants, and a binder. To prepare the composition, the finely divided material and colorants are mixed with an aqueous solution of the binder to provide a granulated mixture. After thoroughly mixing, the mixture is preferably extruded into stick form and dried to evaporate the water. The stick is dried at a slow rate, causing a migration of the binder toward the outer surface of the stick so that the outer surface has a higher content of binder than the central portion of the stick. The resulting dry powder stick has a high cohesive strength and improved &#39;&#39;&#39;&#39;pay-off&#39;&#39;&#39;&#39; when applied to the skin.

United States Patent 91 Kircher et al.

[451 Mar. 26, 1974 METHOD FOR PREPARING PRESSED POWDER MAKEUP STICKS ANDPRODUCT PRODUCED [75] Inventors: Charles R. Kircher, Milwaukee,

Wis.; Richard L. Kole, Port Jervis, NY.

[73] Assignee: -Kolman Laboratories, Inc., Port Jervis, NY.

221 Filed: Dec. 28, 1970 21 Appl. No.: 102,202

Related U.S. Application Data [63] Continuation-impart of Ser. No.785,371, Dec. 19, I968, abandoned.

[52] U.S. Cl 424/63, 424/64, 424/69,

424/DIG. 5 [51] Int. Cl A61k 7/02 [58] Field of Search 424/63, DIG. 5,69

[5 6] References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS l/l928 Helfrich 424/633,196,079 7/1965 Blaustein 424/63 3,296,078 l/l967 Kaye et al 424/63FOREIGN PATENTS OR APPLICATIONS 829,367 3/1938 France 424/63 OTHERPUBLICATIONS Chemical Abstracts, Vol. 51, Item l8485h, 1957.

Sagarin, Cosmetics, Science and Technology, pp.

246-247, 255-261, 484-485, lnterscience Publishers,

Inc., N.Y., 1957.

Primary Examiner-Sam Rosen Assistant Examiner-Anna P. Fagelson [5 7]ABSTRACT A cosmetic makeup composition in the form of a dry pressedpowder stick.v The dry composition is composed of finely divided,generally inert materials, including 40 percent to 90 percent by weightof chalk,

colorants, and a binder. To prepare the composition,

7 Claims, No Drawings METHOD FOR PREPARING PRESSED POWDER MAKEUP STICKSAND PRODUCT PRODUCED BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION This application is acontinuation-in-part of application Ser. No. 785,371, filed Dec. 19,1968 now abandoned.

This invention relates to a cosmetic makeup composition and moreparticularly to a makeup composition in the form of a dry, pressedpowder stick.

In the past eye shadows have generally taken the form of grease sticks,creams or pressed powder cakes. Grease sticks, having a grease or oilbase are messy to use and smear easily on the skin, while creams havethe disadvantage that they must be applied with the finger and also tendto smear easily. While eye shadows in the form of pressed powder cakesare not as messy to apply as grease sticks or creams, the pressed powdercake cannot be applied directly to the skin but requires applicationwith a brush, puff, or other applicator. The reason that the commonpressed powder cake formulation cannot be applied directly to the skinis lack of adequate pay-off. The skin is relatively smooth and is oftenoily due to natural oils or a previously applied cosmetic base. Thus thenormal pressed powder cake formulation, if applied to the skin, willabsorb moisture and oil and quickly glaze over with the result thatthere is an inadequate pay-off of the powder on the skin. Because ofthis, applicators are used with pressed powder cakes, and by use of theapplicator, which is more abrasive than human skin, the powder can beremoved and then transferred from the applicator to the skin. Therefore,in the past, eye shadows have not been employed in the form of pressedpowder sticks due to the lack of strength in the dry stick as well asinadequate pay-of on the skin.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention'is directed to a pressedpowder I cosmetic makeup stick having improved pay-off and minimum dragor pull on the skin, as well as an improved cosmetic feel. Thecomposition includes a substantial portion of chalk along withcolorants, pow-.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENT The dry cosmetic makeupcomposition in general has the following formulation in weight percent:

Chalk 40 to 90% Colorants Up to 20% Binder 0.10 to 5% Finely dividedinert materials Balance The preferred range of composition of thepressed powder stick in weight percent is as follows:

Chalk 45 to 70% Colorants S to 15% Binder 0.15 to 2% Finely dividedinert materials Balance The high concentration of chalk (calciumcarbonate) is important in the formulation, for the physical nature ofthe chalk particles acts to improve the strength of the stick, as wellas controlling the absorbency of the stick so that there is lesslikelihood of the stick absorbing moisture and oil from the skin, andthus the tendency of the stick to glaze-over is reduced and the pay-offon the skin is improved.

The powdered or finely divided material to be used in the compositiontakes the form of conventional pow-' ders used in cosmetic products,such as magnesium carbonate; clays such as bentonite, kaolin and chinaclay; metal stearates such as zinc, aluminum, magnesium, potassium andlithium stearate; titanium dioxide; zinc oxide, talc; starches; starchderivatives; and the like.

The binder which serves to bind the powdered materials together andprovides the necessary strength for. the stick is selected fromnaturalor-synthetic materials, such as gum tragacanth; gum arabic; gum acacia;carboxymethyl cellulose; sodium carboxymethyl cellulose; methylcellulose; ethyl cellulose; gelatin; lignin; polyvinyl pyrrolidone;polyvinyl acetate; complex magnesium aluminum silicate (sold under thename of Veegum by the R. T. Vanderbilt Company), carboxy vinyl polymer(sold under the name of Carbopol by B. G. Goodrich Chemical Company),and the like.

The colorantsare those commonly used in cosmetic products and may takethe form of inorganic pigments such as iron oxide, titanium dioxide;yellow ochre, red iron oxide; ultramarine blue, chromium oxide green;iron black; and lamp black. When the composition is to be used on theskin in locations other than in the area of the eyes organic pigmentssuch as D & C Red Nos. 9, l9, 10, 11 and 12; and D & C yellow No.5, mayalso be used. In addition, natural and synthetic pearlescent materialscan also be employed with or without other colorants. The titaniumdioxide can provide a dual function in that it serves as a constituentof the powder base, as well as providing opaque characteristics for acolored stick, while in the case of a white stick, it serves as theprimary colorant.

In some instances, it may also be desirable to incorporate a lubricantin the composition which aids in extruding, or otherwise forming, thecomposition into stick form, as well as improving the adherence andapplication of the composition to the skin. The lubricant can beemployed in an amount from 0.1 percent to 7.5 percent by weight of thedry composition, and may take the form of metal stearates, such as zinc,aluminum, magnesium, potassium, or lithium stearate; liquid paraffin;fatty alcohols such as cetyl or stearyl; fatty acids such as stearic andpalmitic; soap powder; vegetable and hydrogenated oils; and the like. Inthe formulation the metal stearates function not only as a lubricant butalso as a constitutent of the powder base. The use of a lubricant isimportant when the mixture is extruded into stick form, for the drymaterials, and particularly chalk, are highly abrasive and theincorporation of a lubricant facilitates the extrusion operation.

Preservatives or bactericides can also be incorporated in thecomposition in an amount up to 2 percent truded with the particularamount depending on the preservative employed. Examples of preservativeswhich are commonly used in cosmetic products and can be included in thecomposition of the invention are hydroxy benzoate esters;hexachlorophene, dichlorophene; and the like.

Furthermore, perfumes in an amount up to 1.5 percent can also be used inthe composition.

It is preferred to form the composition into stick form by an extrusionprocess, wherein the dry materials are mixed with a liquid carrier andthe mixture is then exinto the form of a continuous stick or rod. Wateris preferred as the carrier but other evaporable liquids can besubstituted. The particular carrier used is not critical, for in formingthe dry stick the carrier is evaporated and is not present in the finalproduct. In order to provide a mixture having the proper characteristicsto be extruded it is important that the amount of water be maintainedwithin certain limits. Sufficient water should be used to granulate thedry ingredients, and the specific amount of water to be employed forextrusion depends on the absorption characteristics of the dryingredients, but generally, the water will comprise from percent to 35percent by weight of the total weight of the water and dry ingredientsThe term granulate refers to the physical state of the mixture in whichthe individual particles or grains of the dry materials are combined inthe form of relatively uniformly sized agglomerates or balls which aremoist to the touch. ltv has been found that the granulated form isnecessary to a commercially successful extrusion operation, for in thisphysical state the highly abrasive materials can be extruded and yet theextruded stick or rod will retain its shape without crumbling orcracking. Lesser amounts of water, in the range of 8 percent to 13percent by weight of the total weight of the water and dry ingredients,are used in the event the stick is formed by pressing or moldingoperations rather than extrusion.

In the preferred method of forming the dry powder stick, the dryingredients are initially mixed together and-subsequently an aqueousbinder solution is thoroughly mixed with the dry materials. Afterthesolution is thoroughly mixed with the dry materials to form a granulatedmixture, the mixture is extrudedinto the form of a continuous rod. Therod is cut to form sticks of desired length, and the sticks are thendried to evaporate the water or other carrier, and subsequentlypackaged.

It is important that the extruded stick be dried slowly to equilibriumconditions with the atmosphere. While the drying rate is dependent on anumber of factors such as the cross sectional area of the stick, and therelative humidity and temperature of the drying medium, it has beenfound that the stick should be dried to equilibrium conditions with theatmosphere in a period of not less than 12 hours. During this slowdrying operation, the binder tends to migrate toward the outer surfaceof the stick so that the binder content progressively increases from thecenter of the stick to the outer surface. Faster drying rates inhibitthis binder migration. The increased binder content on the outer surfaceproduces a harder, high strength outer skin, while the decreased bindercontent in the center portion results in a softer core having betterpay-off. This structure has decided advantages for a cosmetic makeupstick, for the higher strength outer skin provides a cohesive protectiveshield permitting the stick to be applied directly to the skin withoutcracking or fracturing, and the softer core enables the powder topay-off readily on the skin, so that the composition can be applied todelicate areas of the skin such as the eyelids without undue pressure.Moreover, the stick, when applied to the skin, exerts a minimum drag orpull and has a definite cosmetic feel. The stick has controlledabsorbtion characteristics so that moisture and oils from the skin areless likely to be absorbed, thereby decreasing the tendency for thestick to become glazed-over during use.

The pressed powder stick provides a matte, nongreasy finish on the skinwhich will not smear as do greases and creams. Furthermore, as themakeup composition is in stick form, it can be applied directly to theskin without the need of brushes and without soiling the fingers.

While the stick has particular application as an eye shadow, it can alsobe employed as a face makeup, an eyebrow makeup or a hair tint.

Specific examples of the preparation of dry powdered stick of theinvention are as follows;

EXAMPLE NO. 1

Eye Shadow The following materials were mixed together in parts byweight:

Corn Starch 2.0 Kaolin 5.0 Talc 20.0 Chalk 43.0 Titanium dioxide 20.0Ultramarine blue 10.0

parts of the dry mixture were mixed with 24.55 parts of water and 0.45parts of Veegum as a binder. After thoroughly mixing the ingredients,the resulting granulated mixture was extruded into a continuous rodwhich was cut at intervals to provide sticks having a blue color. Afterdrying for 24 hours at room temperature, the sticks were packaged.

EXAMPLE NO. 2

Eye Shadow A dry mixture was formed by mixing the following ingredientsin parts by weight:

Starch 2.0 Kaolin 5.0 Talc 20.0 Chalk 43.0 Titanium dioxide 5.0 Chromiumoxide green 15.0

78.20 parts of the dry mixture were then mixed with 21 .30 parts ofwater and 0.50parts of Veegum. After thoroughly mixing, the resultantgranulated mixture was extruded into a continuous rod. The rod wassubsequently cut into sticks having a green color. After drying for 24hours the sticks were packaged.

EXAMPLE NO. 3

Eye Shadow A dry mixture was prepared by mixing the followingingredients in parts by weight:

Kaolin 5. Talc 39. Chalk 40. Titanium dioxide 5. Brown iron oxide 10.Lamp black 1.

were packaged.

EXAMPLE NO. 4

Face Makeup The following ingredients were mixed together in parts byweight:

Calcium carbonate 55.00 Talc 26.50 Titanium dioxide 8.00 Corn starch2.25 Kaolin 5.50 Zinc stearate 2.50 Para hydroxy benzoate 0.25

esters Yellow ochre 1.00 Red iron oxide 0.75 Brown iron oxide 0.10

EXAMPLE o. 5

Face Makeup v The following ingredients were mixed together in 0 partsby weight to provide a dry mixture:-

Calcium carbonate 61.80 Titanium dioxide 12.00 Kaolin 6.00 Magnesiumstearate 5.00 Talc 15.00 Hexachlorophene 0.20 D&CRed No. 19 0.10 D & CRed No. 12 0.50 D & C Red No. 2.00

60 parts by weight of the mixture was then mixed with 40 parts by weightof a binder solution consisting of a 1% aqueous solution ofcarboxymethyl cellulose. After thoroughly mixing the binder solutionwith the dry materials, the resulting mixture was extruded into rodform, cut into sticks, dried and packaged.

EXAMPLE NO. 6

Eye Shadow A dry mixture was prepared in accordance with the formulationof Example No. 2. 89 parts of the dry mixture were then mixed with 10parts of water and 1 part of Veegum. After thoroughly mixing the mixturewas molded into a series of sticks. The sticks were then dried andpackaged.

Various modes of carrying out the invention are contemplated as beingwithin the scope of the following claims particularly pointing out anddistinctly claiming the subject matter which is regarded as theinvention.

We claim:

1. A method of forming a dry pressed powder cosmetic makeup stick,comprising the steps of mixing a dry finely divided composition with aliquid carrier to provide a mixture, said dry composition comprisingfrom 40% to 90% by weight of chalk, cosmetically effective amount ofcolorants up to about 20 percent by weight, from 0.1% to 5.0% by weightof a cosmeticpowder binder, and the balance being dry powderedcosmetically compatible materials, forming the mixture into a stick, anddrying the stick to evaporate the carrier at a rate such that themoisture content of the stick reaches equilibrium with the moisturecontent of the atmosphere, said drying rate being sufficiently slow tocause a migration of the binder toward the outer surface of the stick,so that the outer surface of the stick has a higher content of binderthan the central portion of said stick.

2. The method of claim 1, wherein said liquid carrier is water.

3. The method of claim 2, wherein the water is present in an amount of20% to 35% by weight of the total weight of the dry composition and thewater, said mixture being formed into stick form by extrusion.

4. The method of claim 3, wherein said composition further includes from0.1% to 7.5% of a lubricant.

5. The method of claim 1, wherein said binder is a mixture of gumtragacanth and carboxymethyl cellulose.

6. The method of claim 1, wherein said dry composition includes titaniumdioxide, said titanium dioxide functioning as a portion of said finelydivided material as well as a colorant.

7. The dry pressed powder cosmetic makeup stick prepared by the methodof claim 1.

, UNITE}? T'SS PAEENT oFFIcE (IERFZIFHZSITE C(J RRECTIQN Patent NO, 3Dated 1:11;:11Vfarph I 1 Inventor(S) CHARLES R. KIRCHER and RIZF- mo L.KOLE It is certified that error appears in the above-identified patentand that Said Letters Patent are hetebytorrected as shown below:

On Cover Page, AFter "Assigneez" Cancel "Kolman Laboratories Inc." andsubstitute therefor -KOLMAR LABORATORIES, INC."-

Signed and sealed this 1st day of October 1974,

(SEAL) Attest:

. MCCOY GIBSON JR. c. MARSHALL DANN Attestizzg, Officer Commissioner ofPatents FORM PO-IO O (1 uscomM-oc ooa7o-po9 U,S. GOVERN

2. The method of claim 1, wherein said liquid carrier is water.
 3. Themethod of claim 2, wherein the water is present in an amount of 20% to35% by weight of the total weight of the dry composition and the water,said mixture being formed into stick form by extrusion.
 4. The method ofclaim 3, wherein said composition further includes from 0.1% to 7.5% ofa lubricant.
 5. The method of claim 1, wherein said binder is a mixtureof gum tragacanth and carboxymethyl cellulose.
 6. The method of claim 1,wherein said dry composition includes titanium dioxide, said titaniumdioxide functioning as a portion of said finely divided material as wellas a colorant.
 7. The dry pressed powder cosmetic makeup stick preparedby the method of claim 1.